3 May 2012

Hermit

E Approach to Luf Island
Approaching Corola Bay on the South side of Luf Island, we were again met by a paddled canoe - this time to be welcomed by Enoch, who suggested we use one of the village moorings.

Enoch
Sunk expressly for visiting yachts, they charged 20 Kina (US$ 9) for the night. Fair enough! The bay was deep and the Northern mooring looked heavy-duty and in reasonable condition, so we picked it up and opened the bar without further ado. 


Still being weighed down by Ninigo Island produce, we were able to fend off most trading enquiries, with the promise to visit the village later in the morning, But Enoch duly arrived with his family and the Luf Island 'visitors book', including some lovely artwork and the tale of SY Banshee (in 2 parts).

Thanks from Banshee
Banshee, a Bristol 34, was being sailed by two ladies (just very good friends) when she struck the reef where we had just entered and sank in 5 minutes flat. The story of how the locals re-floated & recovered the yacht for them is told in their book 'Escape from Hermit Island'.
Visitors Book artwork

Ashore, we met Namo, the village techie (fixes "outboards & stuff") who had assisted, and told of how they had affected the rescue. First building a scaffold to tip the yacht upright, then using oil drums and the boat's own dive compressor to raise her. Underwater epoxy then sealed the hull enough for her to be bailed out and sailed to a mooring in Carola Bay. Three months of temporary fixes allowed her to sail to Madang; two years later they returned, repaired and ready to continue their voyages. Quite a tale.

Steve had just started work on lunch (we had so much Tuna and Ninigo vedge to eat) when Enoch arrived with an invitation to head out to the reef for some crayfish. OK, yes, we had asked for more crays. Thinking it would only take a couple of hours (as it had Oscar in Ninigo), he dashed off with them while we tucked into the nosh!
Local lunch

Hours later, the sun was setting and they still hadn't returned. We were just begining to worry (actually, we were arguing about who should have his lunch...) when they arrived back with 2 Rock Salmon and 1 (ONE!) cray. Also with tales of superhumans who can hold their breath underwater for impossible lengths of time. We managed to feed Steve with some scraps; he didn't notice in the dark...

Next day, our visit ashore to meet octagenarian Chief Joseph and to look around the school revealed yet another clean, well-ordered village. We distributed some gifts (including a tap & die set for Namo), heard of some wild money-making schemes (tree-planting as a cash crop), and tried out the local dug-out. With an early start, we were ready to go by mid-morning, and weighed at 1030 for Madang.

After only 24 hrs at Luf Island, we felt we had made some friends here and were going to miss this place...

Grade 3 Luf Church Luf Island







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