Boracay-Cebu

Boracay Island

Steve, Pat & crew sailed Harlequin from PG-Maestre de Campo-Romblon-Tablas-Boracay (drinking the boat dry in the process) and handed over to Jim, Sue & team on 23 Mar, anchored off Boat Station 3 on White Beach, Boracay.

The pics tell it all – a beautiful, fun island, with sand & sea positively glowing in the tropical sunlight. A chance to wind down and chill out, enjoy the countless bars & restaurants, and shop for stores of fresh fruit & veg. And coke, which seems to be evaporating for some reason.

White Beach, Boracay

The outboard clutch is stuffed (a technical term) at present, having encountered a mooring line on a night run to the beach. Steve is going to try for spare parts back in HK. Instead, banca drivers have been taking turns attempting to ram Harlequin as they deliver us back from shopping trips or evening runs ashore.

After a few days settling in aboard, we departed mid-afternoon for an overnight sail to Gigantes Islands. Starting out in champagne conditions under crystal starlight, the first watch (Jim & Jon) handed over to Ross & Igo, who immediately darted into the wettest, coldest & darkest thunderstorm they could find. Replaced by 3rd watch, Jim & Sue for the third stretch to dawn, Jon then arose to remark on the wet decks, having slept through the lot!

Fixing the forehatch leak

Sadly, his next comment was “Look at that – a huge explosion!”. Sure enough, the local fishermen were in the process of destroying Cucaracha Shoal. About eight small fishing bancas descended quickly on the spoils.

Leaving Gigantes Islands at dawn

Anchoring in Gabi Bay, between N and S Gigantes, everyone then chilled, dried out & recovered for 24 hrs, watching the trail of banca traffic passing by. Oggling us, as we oggled them. Being a Sunday, they mostly seemed to be heading out for a day on the beach, visiting the local limestone cave and, later, enjoying a spot of karaoke. Huge smiles and waves all round – a very happy lot.

Jon catches dinner!

Dawn saw an early start for Malapascua in sunshine, flat seas and a perfect NE’ly. We were even blessed with a large Barracuda – dinner! The sun lasted all the way to our anchorage by the lighthouse but there the heavens opened, and never closed! Memories of Malapascua will be of cold rain & puddles, never a good look when mixed with the poverty of the local shacks. What might seem romantic in the sun, turns squalid after 24 hrs of rain. The one saving grace was an excellent dinner at Angelina’s Italian restaurant (the old La Dolce Vita?) with several bottles of Bordalino.

Ross & Igo departed here (obviously loving the rain) on the 27th, to be replaced by Colin & Glenda who had arrived earlier to stay at the Mangrove Oriental Resort. They were expertly delivered to Harlequin at (actually, well before) dawn on the 28th, with freshly cooked bacon & egg rolls! Welcome aboard!

Chartplotter track

The rain continued until Malapascua (obviously home of the Rain Gods) disappeared astern. The NE’ly 25-30 kts was gratefully received, though, as we sped South towards Cebu under full sail. The sun shined, the tide was with us and, as the wind dropped, we even popped the assy’ for an hour.

Zeke's in the S arm of Port Carmen

By the time we’d confirmed that the Cebu Yacht Club at Mactan was full, Port Carmen was conveniently abeam, and we nipped in to explore mooring possibilities. Lack of an outboard was acutely restricting anchoring options, so when we hailed a couple of yachts anchored in the N arm of the bay and were advised to “Try Zeke’s”, we were relieved to have found somewhere we could berth 'alongside’.

Zeke's 'Marina'

Actually moored bow-to with stern lines stretched out across the lagoon by the local boat-boys, Zeke’s basin was half full of cruising yachties, all helpful with advice on local provisioning options. Happy Hour at Zeke’s upstairs Stranded bar (a yacht club in everything but name) was a mine of information. Who needs the CYC!

Some light provisioning...

Danao (north of Cebu City) afforded the opportunity to stock up on provisions for Leg 3, with Sue & Glenda dragging Colin along as chief negotiator and Mr Fix-it, while Jim & Jon headed into Cebu to sort out CIQ out of the Philippines. Two brief nights, and all was sorted, ready to depart onwards for the Cuatro Islands...
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Leg 2B crew: Jim & Sue, Jon, Ross & Igo / Colin & Glenda