Hamilton and the Whitsundays

Hamilton Island to Mackay.

Hamilton Island Marina

The Whitsundays and more!
 
Having enjoyed their last stint on Harlequin in the Philippines, it wasn't hard to sell the idea of a week of sun and easy cruising in the Whitsundays to my wife Jo and her pal, Chantal. Rog said he’d come along too to add some muscle to the crew and help the onboard gender balance. That was just fine.

"Look!  They're having a sale"

By the standards of other Mega-Cruz legs, this one was a minnow – a quick circuit of Whitsunday Island and about 65 miles to Mackay Marina broken into short day legs, island to island.  For a while in the planning I did think we should have kept with the spirit of the mission and aimed for more miles in the push toward Brisbane.  However, in the end it seemed silly not to take the opportunity to linger and make the best we could of Australia’s cruising crown jewels.

We flew into perfectly manicured Hamilton Island to await Jim and Harlequin who were earnestly battling against wind and tide from Airlie Beach and points north to make the planned RV.  We paid silly money for a van to take us and bags the few hundred yards from the airport to the marina and commercial centre of Hamilton where we could pick up some ice, a few last minute extra supplies and enjoy a cold one overlooking the busy harbour. Er, it's a tad expensive here (but it is pretty!).

Fuel pier RV

On cue just after 3pm, H' eased into the marina and made for the fuel pier for a quick drop off  (Frank) and pick up.  Jim’s flight out was in two days so he’d be a welcome addition to the crew until then and it also meant we could have a leisurely handover of the various little boat snags that accumulate on a trip like this.

With only a few hours of daylight left and nights in Hamilton Marina retailing at AU$120 we said ‘Auf Wiedersehen’ to able hand Frank and immediately pressed for the popular anchorage at Sawmill Bay.  The inbound run up the Hunt Channel certainly impressed upon me the need to take the notorious Whitsunday tides into account in the coming days.

As expected, Sawmill was busy but there was space enough for a comfortable swing under the lee of Whitsunday Peak.   

A large turtle stuck its head up to check us out and as darkness fell, anchor lights vied for numerical superiority with the stars overhead.  Apparently, this is as far as some charters ever get from Hamilton but it’s easy to see why.

The sun was brilliant and the SE trade was in rude blow the next morning as we weighed anchor and headed out through Hook Passage (short pause to set the second reef in the main) on the clockwise route to Whitehaven Bay and Australia’s most famous beach after Bondi. 

Perfect Whitehaven

There was a bit of a sea running but the girls took it in their stride as we beat between Border and Dumbell Islands and outside Esk for the run in to Whitehaven and a slightly rolly late lunch anchorage about 100m off the southern end of the beach.  We weren’t alone but it wasn't crowded and the day visitors were starting to head home. 
  
Going ashore was well worth the short and slightly wet dinghy paddle it took to get there.  The sight of Harlequin, our boat, sitting pretty off the perfect crescent of fine white sand struck me as an icon of just how much she’d shown us since leaving Hong Kong on this spectacular journey. 

We spent the night across from Whitehaven in the flatter waters of Chalky’s Bay off Haslewood Island.  Our ‘glow in the dark’ fishing lures proved a total failure despite Jim’s determined efforts.  This plus our constant trolling through the day had produced nothing but a couple of major line tangles so we settled for tuna from a can with dinner.

Solway swirls!

In the morning, Jim had a flight to catch so we hitched a spectacular tideride on the swift and turbulent flow through Solway Passage and past Fitzalan Island back into Hamilton Marina.

Aussie Spotted Mack.

Jim ashore in good time and we set off south through Dent Passage for Lindeman and Shaw Islands and perhaps a few less boats.  Great weather and a nice view of Pentecost Island were further improved by catching a nice Australian Spotted Mackerel on the red and white swimmer.

'Thar she blows'!

It just got better when I spied a cloud of spray ahead of us and whale and calf cruised by just 40m from us.  Justin’s dad Dave’s recommendation of the anchorage at Burning Point was spot on and we were welcomed there by more turtles and even a brief tailwag from a dugong sparking much discussion about mermaids.  Can’t imagine anyone being smitten by a dugong on looks though.

Frying tonight.

                         For dinner, Rog transformed our mackerel prize into succulent breaded gujons (gotta love those packet Japanese breadcrumbs!) and a lively thai fish curry that even Jo and Chantal agreed had raised the bar for onboard tucker.

Ankle deep at Goldsmith

The next day we were the only one of the few others at the anchorage to head further south on the rising tide.  Goldsmith Island was the target for the day and the ‘smith Group’ felt much more remote than our previous stops.  After an easy beat through the islands we crossed a shallow bar and tucked into the edge of the channel that runs between Farrier and Goldsmith.  We had enough daylight left for a trip to the beach and a sunset paddle chasing flounders around the mudflats quickly emerging in the falling tide – frustratingly I still cant spot the suckers early enough to have any realistic chance of spearing them for dinner.  It dropped so far that by the time we were done we had to walk most of the way back to the boat to find water deep enough to float the dinghy with us in it.

In the morning, the low tide had shrunk the body of water in the bay.  This probably corralled any baitfish in the area and we could see tuna around us making the most of the opportunity to feed.

Not wanting to leave ourselves with too much ground to cover on Saturday to make Mackay, we passed on the chance to explore some of the walking tracks on Brampton Island and decided on a longer sail to Keswick/St Bees for Friday’s destination.   It was another beat into a fresh Sou’easter but the crew was getting used to the tacking routine now and the benefit of the tide helped us make nearly 9kts towards target at times.  The rocky islands and outcrops south of Goldsmith offered a rugged and interesting backdrop to the trip.

The suggested anchorage on the NE corner of Keswick was a little rolly as advertised and shelved quickly on approach though the hook took easily and the wind kept us out over deeper water.  It was comfortable enough though and gave Rog and I the chance to swim on the hull and give the waterline a much needed scrub. 
 

Fixing the flag.

Low tide the next morning showed the extent of the coral in this bay and if we’d had the time it looked like it would be a good spot for a snorkel.  Once again, we saw a fair bit of fish activity around us though Rog had no luck attracting them with his baited hook.  5 days, 1 fish, not a great strike rate!  I honestly thought we’d have done better.

Sailing flat for once!

A cruise through the Egremont Channel gave us a nice view of the airstrip and the significant number of impressive houses now dotting the hillside of Keswick Island.  There also appear to be good anchoring opportunities out of the stream just north of the airstrip – perhaps we should have investigated further the previous afternoon.  Exiting the channel we were able to enjoy a relaxed beam reach across to Mackay.

As luck would have it a ship was leaving Mackay Outer Harbour as we approached and despite holding what I felt was a course to keep clear (by what would be considered miles in Hong Kong) we still got paid a visit by the pilot boat who rather directly told us to clear the shipping channel.  Of course, he might have been using it as an excuse to check out the chicks on deck!

Moored in Mackay

The entry to the impressive Mackay Marina was easy enough and we were soon tied alongside at W29.  After cleaning up the boat, cold beer, an aussie steak dinner and even a bit of bad dancing to the band in the village constituted our arrival celebration.  With the exception of our poor fishing record, the Whitsundays had lived up to their reputation as a fine place to sail and they justified the time taken over them.   

Of course, it was great to be in Mackay safely and without major incident though we all remarked that it felt like it had ended too soon.  Perhaps that's always the best way to finish.

Steve

Harlequin Whitsundays Cruise - Hamilton to Mackay

Bowen - Airlie - Hamilton Island

Under the keel...

By 1045 (a late start for us) we were off, and headed for the Gloucester Passage. A convenient and sheltered short-cut, we were later than planned, approaching 2 hrs to low tide. We expected 4 ft under the keel (over sand) but got 2.5 ft  at one spot! By 1300 we were safely through, and enjoyed a cold beer to celebrate in relief.

Again, the SE'ly turned the planned 35nm into a pitchy 60nm beat - a race against time to reach Airlie Beach, where we planned on anchoring off the Whitsunday Sailing Club for a last night steak dinner.

Boat cuisine

However, by 1700 it was clear we weren't going to make it in daylight, so decided to lob into Woodwark Bay instead, just 6nm W of Airlie. We weren't alone. In the 400+ nm sail from Cairns-Townsville-Bowen we had seen perhaps 3 other yachts, and shared an anchorage only once: in the Hinchinbrook Channel. Now we were surrounded by over a dozen! Apparently, we had just arrived in the Whitsundays.

Carole & Alexis

Next morning we popped into the Able Point marina to drop off Alexis & Carole. Discovering the outrageous prices of everything on Hamilton Island (including $55 each, just for a ferry ride back to Shute Harbour), they had decided to step ashore early. A sad farewell; they had been fun company since Cairns, and a great help around the boat, both above & below decks. They (and most especially Carole's cooking) will be sorely missed, but may hopefully rejoin us for another leg later, before they return home to France for Xmas.

Frank remained aboard for the transit to Hamilton Island, where we were to meet Steve & Jo and the team for the next leg. Again the ebb was not in our favour as we beat down the Molle Channel then Whitsunday Passage. The further South we sail, the greater the tidal range (peaking in the vicinity of Mackay) and the more we are going to have to accomodate the tide in our planning, it seems!

Our serendipitous Cairns crew...

However, by 1500 we were entering the Hamilton Island marina as planned, to tie off briefly at the fuel pier and welcome the new crew who had just landed from Hong Kong via Brisbane.

Sadly, Frank was leaving now too, to explore the Whitsundays (arranging a sailing berth for 3-day explore) - so more sad farewells. Again, Frank's experience and assistance on the boat since Cairns had been invaluable, and we wish him well for the rest of his extended holiday in Oz...

Townsville - Bowen

Trawling at sunset

Steve's provisions...

Townsville was a great spot for provisioning - especially with A&C's van available - so we took the opportunity to stock up for the next leg, as well for Steve's upcoming week in the Whitsundays. Coles also offered a 8c/l fuel discount, so we grabbed 4 cans of diesel at the same time. The waterline dropped 6 inches under the weight of consumables, and full water & fuel tanks!

Townsville - Upstart Bay overnight

Departing at 1600 on 11 Oct to catch the tide, we sailed 90nm overnight to reach the protection of Upstart Bay by dawn and beat the forecast Strong Wind warning of SW'ly 30 kts. The expected N'ly didn't materialise (I think they're a myth), but the early evening calms at least allowed a leisurely motor-sail for the first few hours, before the S'ly started building at 2100. By midnight we had 2 reefs in the main, 3 in the Genoa and were beating into Upstart Bay. By 0700 we were anchored and snoring (with anchor-watch) and by 1030 we were dragging in 30+ kts. No sweat - another 30m of rode and she happily snugged in again.

Alexis

By 1400 the wind had calmed, as per the forecast, so we re-positioned to Shark Bay, where we would be more sheltered for the night in the returning SE'ly. Despite the name, everyone then took to the water in glorious sunshine for a spot of hull & waterline cleaning, as well as an overdue prop zinc change. All to work up an appetite for Carole's magnificent cuisine, of course, and another dégustation with the local clean skins!

Upstart Bay - Bowen

Next day saw a long beat to Bowen, with 45nm becoming a monotonous 65, motor-sailing for much of it at 1500 RPM to keep up speed into the chop and reach the marina before sunset. Arriving at the NQCYC's outer berth at mid-flood proved interesting, particularly with the forward drive playing up. Despite adjusting the gear cabling, it wasn't finding forward gear every time and, sure enough, just when it mattered, it didn't as we entered the 'marina' at Bowen.

Marina-mouth berth at Bowen

Quick as you like, the harbour-mouth flood whipped us sideways and the fresh breeze blew us between the lines of berthed & moored boats. Only a lot of luck kept us clear long enough to find forward drive, with just enough space fore & aft to spin her stern to wind and reverse back out again for another try.

Nothing damaged (only pride) we settled in for the night at the bleak, exposed berth, wondering what we were paying the $42 for...!

Frank the fixer

Next morning we were up with the larks to work on the windlass which was now dead on the 'Up'. Frank had already investigated in Townsville and discovered some missing nuts and a loose motor - fixed, ingeniously with a squashed Coke can. Now we discovered another two snags: bad battery connections and a knackered switch in the hand-controller, fixed by swapping the 'Up' for the 'Down'.

Broken switch

Alexis had a good play with the Wind instrument as well, but that remains frozen - a mystery.

Townsville fridge repairs (or not)

Downtown TYC marina

With Jim back in Hong Kong for a week (and BKK, TPE & DXB), Alexis & Carole nipped back up to Cairns to recover their wagon & explore the Tablelands. Meanwhile Frank remained aboard to check out Townsville & Magnetic Island, and honcho the fridge repairs.

Expecting electrical problems, Frank removed the compressor tray and checked the control box - no problem. Maybe we had simply lost the refrigerant?

The manager at TYC marina recommended Clive Simpson at SS Electrical & Refrigeration, so we duly gave him a call and arranged an appointment for a re-gas, and to look for leaks or other problems. This he did, charging $352 (!) but we now had cold beer and the capacity to store more fish, so probably worth it.

deep fridge compressor

Sadly, it was not to last. Within 2 days the fridge was running warm again - obviously a slow gas leak. Bugger!!!

Calling Mr Simpson, it transpired that he had not actually tested for slow leaks; he had left that particular piece of equipment in the car. No, really.

Strangely, he blamed Frank for this, saying that as Frank had said that he thought it was an electrical problem, there was no need for a full pressure check! A true professional.

He offered to return to complete the job properly, but by the time the leak was (re-) discovered we were in Bowen, and he wasn't offering to drive 200km down the road to meet us. Thanks - 350 bucks down the drain.

An expensive lesson learned: don't use Mr Clive Simpson at SS Electrical & Refrigeration in Townsville...

Cairns - Townsville

Cairns - Townsville

OK, after only 6 weeks in Cairns, it was time to move on if we're going to reach Brisbane by Xmas.

Positioning to the Whitsundays for Steve's hols in October, the next leg was from Cairns-Townsville via the Hinchinbrook Channel and the Palm Islands.

We usually sail with friends & family, but can often use a spare hand or two to assist on positioning legs. No particular sailing experience necessary, just keen, friendly, comfortable on a boat, and willing to learn. So we were very happy to welcome 3 volunteers aboard in Cairns - particluarly when 3 friends had just dropped out!

Demi-poisson

Alexis & Carole (Fr) were in Cairns already, as part of their year long tour of Oz; Frank (De) was just about to fly in from Frankfurt. And all were ready to set off on 30 Sep for a sail down the coast! They had heard of our plans through SailingNetworks.com and then got in touch through this blog. Smart cookies!

Big-eyed Tuna

A&C kindly shopped for provisions while we waited for Frank to arrive (via Frankfurt, Seoul & Brisbane), and we eventually slipped at dusk from Marlin Marina for an overnight (motor-) sail to the Hinchinbrook Channel. Enjoying perfect conditions, and a full moon, the lines were out at dawn and Alexis quickly landed the first fish: a Spanish Mackerel. Well half of one - a shark obviously couldn't resist and had the other half for breakfast as we reeled her in!

Half & half

 Not to worry. Shortly after, Jim landed a juicey Big-eyed Tuna and the rods were stowed. Enough meat for now, especially as we were still feasting on a huge Coles pre-roasted chicken from Cairns!

We anchored the second night in the mouth of the Gayundah Creek, along with a couple of local boats and enjoyed our fish feast. Quickly on the next morning, though - with a forecast of SE'ly 25-30 kts, we wanted to make some miles!

Anchor aweigh...

Popping out the bottom end of the Hinchinbrook Channel (5 ft under the keel at high tide), we had our traditional 2 reefs in the main, but the breeze (gusty in the channel) was moderating, not piping up, so out came the reefs and we renewed our beat southwards. Anchoring overnight at Great Palm Island, the gale returned, but by then we were snug in Casement Bay and the bar was open!


Townsville tuna

Next morning we did the reverse: popped our head out from Great Palm Is with one reef, immediately realised the error, and ducked under Havannah Island to secure the second.

Then ensued a punishing 10-hour beat to Townsville against the ESE'ly F6-7 (as advertised), first routing around the air-ground range at Rattlesnake Island, then south of Magnetic Island via the West Channel. By 1800 on 3 Oct, we were alongside at Townsville Yacht Club marina, and felt we had earned our dinner.

The beat to Townsville...

Fish, of course!

A short break here, and the plan is to continue on towards Bowen, Airlie & the Whitsundays from 11-15 Oct. First though, we need to get that second fridge fixed for storage of more fish, and the bottles of Aussie beer & vin blanc that are needed to go with it!