Leg 5 - Madang - Alotau

Leg 5 kicked off on the 27^th April from the dock of the very welcoming and conveniently situated Madang Game Fishing Club, north eastern PNG, in bright sunshine with a fine view of the Karkar Island volcano.  There had been a bit of a crew change with some hands departing back to real life and new friends joining; Jim was releasing the reigns of Harlequin to Steve and Pat with Colin, Chris and Roger along as crew.  There was a slight concern about Chris who had had an insect bite that he’d picked up in Ninigo go very bad on him, necessitating a visit to the doctors in Madang and a night onshore in a comfy hotel bed.  However, he had the drugs, assured us he was feeling good and definitely seemed to be getting back to his old self so we pressed on with the plan.

Route Plan for Leg 5

Madang direct to the Trobriands via the Vitiaz Strait and Solomon Sea.  From there we would follow the surveyed channels on the chart through the Amphlett Group, Dawson Strait between Ferguson and Normanby Islands, Goschen Strait to Milne Bay and Alotau, overnighting on the anchor as required.

In Alotau we’d pick up another crewmember (Jeremy) to make 6 for the eventual Coral Sea crossing to Cairns, refuel and reprovision before clearing Customs and Immigration outbound.  Time permitting we’d head south east for a few days to improve the sailing angle to Australia and get a little taste of the Louisiades area before leaving PNG waters for the 500nm stretch to Cairns.

Madang – Vitiaz Strait

Leaving around mid afternoon and with a good breeze we soon put a few miles between us and Madang, the day closing with one of the typically spectacular sunsets we have been treated to on the Mega Cruz. 

The guide warned of strong tidal flows of up to 3kts against us in the Strait and suggested closing the mainland coast to within a half mile to minimize.  Come dawn this is what we did with a purpose and enjoyed a spectacular rolling show of coastal native life from just outside the reefs that line the shore.  The chart and guide suggests there are anchorages at Kelanoa Harbour and Kasseroa Lagoon and whilst they looked promising, we didn't have time to explore.  The scenery along this stretch is magnificently rugged with stepped and eroded ancient coral reefs giving way to humid peaks in the distance.  

As night fell we passed abeam the light at Kitumala Point and, under a starry sky, headed out into the Solomon Sea, Roger’s ‘Harlequin Cool’ playlist on the stereo.

Vitiaz Strait – Trobriand Islands

The entry to the Solomon Sea was peaceful enough but as the ITCZ typically wags its western tail in this area at this time of year it was unlikely to stay that way for long.  By breakfast we’d caught our first fish since Madang – a modest skipjack, had begun to feel the pressure from the developing SE monsoon (not great as that's the way we were headed) and looking ahead we could see the thick grey trunks of storm cells marching along with it.   

So followed a couple of days and nights of beating, reefing and dodging into the uncomfortably short sea kicked up by the gust fronts from the cells.  An added dimenson was the very busy shipping lane that runs straight through the area.  Unfortunately, during one of our storm preps we irreparably blew the repair to our reefing genoa that had been done by the upholsterer (not kidding) in Palau.  

Fortunately, we had a spare.

Dampened spirits were kept up by some top products from the galley (CM’s roast chicken dinner in particular) and we finally closed in on the Luscany approach to the Trobriands after 520 sea miles (to cover 360 crow miles).  A cheeky bird even hitched a ride for the last cold, dark and wet few.

 

It tends to shallow a long way out from the shore in the lee of the extended Kiriwina Island and the guidebook suggestion was far too exposed for our liking.  We found a good and quiet spot off the north shore of Muwo Island some way south.   

We were approached by a speedy with a full load of swarthy locals on board.  As a precaution we got all hands on deck to match their numbers but it turned out they were hoping that we might have some extra ‘zoom’ (petrol) to guarantee their trip to Alotau.  We had none but gave them all a beer and they went on their way.  However, we were generally left on our own in that spot.  


One day, we made the trek back up to the Boli Point channel entrance to Losuia and thanks to the telephone numbers in the Lonely Planet guide and a helpful chap named James (thats him on the left with the beer) we managed to tee up a boat ride into town for a look at the land of yams and free love!

The marked channel to Losuia ends at a rough jetty, on the way up we passed other speedies as well as outrigger canoes from the traditional villages being paddled or hand poled along.  Everything for the community comes through here and when we arrived it was teeming.  

A diesel shipment from Alotau was being unloaded, fish and bread was being hawked from boats, a boar on a pole and everything needed for betel nut chewing was on display. 

We did see this fellow with a pole full of poisonous puffer fish heading off home for dinner – we were assured by a local that ‘they know how to prepare them’ (sure I read somewhere that Japanese sushi chefs spend years learning that skill).  There were also a lot of the carved wooden items that the Trobriands are known for available for sale – funny that as we were unannounced tourists and it didn't seem like the locals were buying.  Maybe James had tipped someone off? 

We made a short walking tour of the town checking out the three local stores in the process.  They all sold only tinned foods, washing powder and soft drinks.  No cricket (only soccer), no free love, but plenty of friendly people.

 Trobriands - Amphlett Islands

We followed the surveyed channel on the chart south past several iconic desert islands, stopping for a swim and explore on the way. 

 

In contrast to the low sand cays, the Amphlett Islands stand tall and impressive with steep-to shorelines that make anchoring tricky.  

However, we eventually found a hold off the west of Gumawana Island (near the rockface in the picture) in 40ft with acceptable clearance from the many coral heads that sprout very close to the beach.  









Our searching for a spot had highlighted our arrival to the local village and we were soon busy with trade to top up our fruit and vegetable supplies as well as order some crayfish.  We wanted them that evening which meant delivery after dark but the local lads seemed reluctant to do this.  It emerged they were worried that we would shoot anyone approaching our vessel after dark!  Apparently it had happened.

 

They came back later that night as agreed bearing some wonderful crayfish.  We shared a starlight beer and a cigar (they actually preferred their own rollups using newspaper!) with these very amiable young men and listened to some of their own home recorded music (on a old cassette player!).  

In the morning we serviced the electric motor in the windlass as it had become a bit erratic in operation and with the depths we were usually forced to anchor in we needed it working well to avoid the backbreaking manual lift of chain from the depths.  We then proceeded further south towards the D’Entrecasteaux Islands and the Dawson Passage.

Amphlett Islands – Alotau

The channel south proved easy to navigate and reliably charted.  The narrower east entrance to the Dawson Strait between Normanby and Ferguson Islands soon opens into a wide clear channel with significant communities on either shore.  

There are good mobile phone comms all along.  The cruising guide suggests strong tidal flows at times but we made our passage at slack water and saw little current.  As our plan was to continue overnight to reach the head of Milne Bay at dawn we decided to anchor briefly for dinner near the jetty at Es’ala Anchorage on the south side of the Strait.  Sailing boats must be a more regular feature here as no one visited us.

We exited the Dawson and entered the Goschen Strait in bright moonlight.  The unsurveyed area on the south side of the exit is annotated with vague reports of an unmarked reef extending some way out to sea. Tentative exploration close to the edge of the surveyed channel suggests that it does indeed shoal quickly and a useful reminder that the depth of the seabed is extremely variable in these parts.  Proceed off the beaten and surveyed track with great care! As soon as we cleared the exit and its hazards we set a course for the light on Meimeiara I off the end of East Cape which marked the next set of reef passages into Milne Bay. 

Entering Milne Bay from the Goschen Strait requires careful navigation through one of a number of narrow, shallow reef passages.  

 

 
Further south the east-west passages are deeper and marked with beacons and radar reflectors (eg Raven Channel), however, from our approach direction it was quicker to squeeze through either Hornbill or Jackdaw Channel. With a bit of care and Colin’s view from the mast spreader lookout we slipped through Jackdaw without difficulty in 30ft and were soon cruising towards the head of Milne Bay and Alotau.  The markers in Hornbill are obvious and it saves a few miles.  However, as first timers the charted depths made us wary.

  
En route to Alotau early on the 6th May, we then enjoyed a terrific display of seabirds attempting to swoop down behind and chase down the many flying fish spooked into flight by our passage.  It seemed to be a race that the fish won more often than not with a knack for reentering the sea just as the birds were within inches behind.

Alotau

As we approached close to Sanderson Bay looking for an anchorage we had a close encounter with the remains of a submerged palm tree.  Strong vibration from below indicated we had badly fouled the propeller but were now drifting towards a concrete seawall.  Quick work by the crew got the main ready to raise and fenders over to protect against the closing shore.  At the same time, Pat grabbed the mask and knife we keep close to the helm for such events and went over the side to clear the debris so we could resume motoring to anchor.

Eventually we anchored in a good spot just to the west of the entrance to Sanderson Bay and just out from the WWII memorial (Alotau was the site of a significant battle for the Gurney airstrip).  Everywhere else was steep-to a lee shore and most uncomfortable!  It is sheltered here from the prevailing SE’rly and associated chop as well as giving easy access to the services of Alotau town.  Fuel, markets, banks, some hotel compounds and the Customs office are all within a short walk of the memorial.  There’s not much in the way of restaurants but a few miles further down the coast on the way to the airport the steak and chips at the Driftwood Resort is highly recommended!

Leg 5 covered approximately 550 nautical miles from Madang to Alotau in 10 days.  It had a bit of everything; inclement weather, beautiful islands, tricky passages and charming people.  Bring on Leg 6, Alotau to Australia via the Louisiades!

Steve