Back in Whangarei

Our route round N Island

Huge apologies!

We've been aboard Harlequin  in NZ since November and not a single post! Too busy cruising, the inevitable socializing and exploring this lovely country to blog about it, I suppose. That's the only excuse.

We've just made it back to Whangarei, completing our 4 month circumnavigation of North Island and are now up on the hard at Docklands 5 slapping on the annual anti-foul and preparing for our departure to Tonga & Fiji in about a week's time.

So there should be time to 'back-fill' some of the cruising stories we should have posted over the last few months, before we depart.

Sue hard at work

The map shows our route round N Island since December, during which we've enjoyed visits from David & Fiona, Pat, Sebastian, Olli & David (briefly) James & Sue, Julie, Nico, Kobi & Yuval, Steve & Jo, Dan, Declan, John, Jon & Tim, Adam, David, Warren, Matteo, Russell & Cathy, Jamie, Jean & Jo, Chris & Chrissie, and Iain & Cathy. Phew!

Now just a week to go, to be spent provisioning and weather-watching, trying to get a feel for the approaching weather systems as we prepare for the 'off'...

Boys Trip #2

Caption competition...

The second lads' push comprised JC and elder son, Charlie, another John (very confusing, so we called him 'Bob'), Gareth and Rhys - back for more punishment, if only for 24 hrs.

With the advance party having taken care of provisioning earlier in the day (thanks, John), we were able to depart Whangarei within minutes of arrival on the very last of the tide - skimming the mud as we shot downstream a full 3 hrs after the high.

Touch and go, but it made for a record time to Marsden Cove marina, for a brief overnight (and a well-needed wash-down for Harlequin) before pressing on up the coast to Tutukaka the next day.

Lovely day for a swim

By mid-afternoon, we were alongside at the marina there, with Charlie & Gareth in the water (they volunteered, honest) giving the prop a good scrub. Needed it, too, although the rest of the anti-foul on the hull has been lasting amazingly well in the river at Whangarei.

Meanwhile the adults sat in the sun and chatted over cocktails. So it was only fair the boys be treated to a slap-up pizza dinner at the Marina Pizzaria - trez plez, sitting outdoors in the warm winter sun.

Charles

JC and John then had to depart, back at work on Monday morning, leaving the remaining team of Jim, Charlie & Gareth to sail & fish their way back down the coast in a stiff NW'ly to Bream Head. No fish landed, but they were met by a large school of dolphins for an hour of play, before heading straight up the river to Whangarei.

Where's Charlie gone?!

A couple of days of odd jobs rounded off this flying visit, leaving Harlequin refreshed and ready for the summer hols, starting next month. Can't wait...

Dolphin hunting

Here they come!

Line abreast

Boys Trip #1

Boys weekend

Work took its toll for the next couple of months, so it was July before Jim managed back for a boys' sail, planning to head up to explore Tutukaka.

Borrowing a car from a kind Kiwi CX mate for the drive up to Whangarei was a very pleasant bonus. JC, Chris & Rhys were there in advance. And impatient. Rather than wait an hour, having lost one of the boat keys, they broke in! Must have been thirsty.

At least they'd already done the shopping (and some), so by the time Jim arrived all he had to do was open the bar. And mend the lock. And buy a new padlock...

Gettin' fuzzy again...

Next day, Sunday, was a slow but early start, with the boys setting off down the river on the flood, hoping the weather would allow passage round Bream Head then up the coast to Tutukaka. It didn't.

Even motor sailing against the short seas inside Bream Head proved difficult, and didn't bode well for conditions outside. So discretion being the better part, and all that, the boys threw a quick 180 and headed back to Marsden Cove marina.

Securely berthed alongside an hour later, the heavens opened, followed by a full gale, nicely reinforcing the prudence of the earlier decision. Bar open!

Wrestling with the controls...

Now out of time to reach Tutukaka, Monday allowed time instead for a spot of driving practice around the marina, then a sail up the river. On the edge of a broach much of the time admittedly, 'Wrecking John' (his new moniker) and Rhys may well have been fighting with each other on the two wheels (the picture speaks volumes), when the steering chain snapped again. Just as well we had a spare from Norfolk Island.

10 mins later we were on our way again, and sailed all the way up to the new and very impressive, $28 million Hatea River lifting bridge. Except it wasn't. Lifting that is. Not for 2 hours, while some 'post-release servicing' was carried out. Apparently the bridge expands 20 mm more than predicted (at 26 deg C) and sticks!

Hatea River Bridge opening

So we waited patiently alongside the holding berth, stowed the sails, did some 'post-release servicing' ourselves on the steering, then... opened the bar again! This was a boys weekend, after all.

Things were getting tight on the falling tide by the time we were finally allowed through, with only a foot under the keel in places as we dashed the last mile up to our berth in the town basin. Drawing a couple of dirty looks, it has to be said, as we hammered past other moored boats at 5 kts, but we didn't fancy the alternative...

Tuesday, the lads very kindly helped out with a toe-rail (starboard aft) removal, as we'd discovered a leak into the starboard cabin. Many hands really do make light work, so the rail was off, the deck/hull joint sealed & tightened, and toe-rail back on again in no time at all. It helped that we were alongside to carry out the job too - less swimming involved.

The boys then departed for the drive to Auckland, leaving Jim with a month's worth of fresh rations to deal with. He immediately began with a juicy steak and a cheeky little Otago pinot noir...

Easter in the Hauraki Gulf

Whangarei marina

Easter saw Jim & Sue back aboard for a few weeks.

The plan was to cruise up to Marsden Cove & Whangarei Town Quay marinas to see which would be most suitable for long-term berthing over the winter.

Sailing adventure...

Fay Cooper and son William joined us for a sail to overnight at Kawau Island's Stockyard Bay. Then up to Marsden Cove (catching a couple of Kahawai along the way) to be met by John, just back from a trip to the US & UK. Baked fish for dinner!

Town Quay

Next day, Easter Sunday, we departed on the last of the flood for a trip up the river to Whangarei - very pretty, and tide not a concern for us (2.2 m draft in cruising trim) within 2 hrs of high tide. We were berthed on the town side, just a few hundred metres from Pak 'n Save and other stores, so very convenient. Picturesque too.

Dinner was taken ashore at a nearby Thai restaurant, where we were surprised to be told that alcoholic drinks were 'off', due to it being Easter Sunday. Apparently a law here?!

Whangarei falls

Beauty and the Beast

Monday we explored the Whangarei market, followed by the Hatea River walk via Kauri Park to the Whangarei Falls (3.5 hrs). It was hot, so this was followed by ice-creams on the quay and, as they were so good, a repeat!

Sadly, the Coopers then had to leave, to return to real life (and jobs), so we motored back down for another night at Marsden Cove, which proved as sterile and remote as ever. Decision made: we would be berthing at Whangarei for the coming months.

Suspension of services

First, though, a tour of the Hauraki Gulf. In part, a repeat of an earlier cruise we'd enjoyed when we chartered a Farr 40 after the Americas Cup in Auckland in 2003. In fact during the Americas Cup - due to the extensive weather delays, we were actually on the finish line aboard our charter yacht as Alingi took the cup.

This time we'd start with Great Barrier Island, including another climb up Mt Hobson and a couple of nights at Smokehouse Bay to shelter from a forecast 35 kt SW'ly -  where we bumped into another ex-HK boat: Touch of Class. Then to Tryphena for 2 nights, picking up a couple more Kahawai in the Man of War Passage.

Waiheke from Stony Batter

From there we'd intended to check out the Mercury Islands, but the unsettled weather changed that plan and we diverted to Hook's Bay on Waiheke instead, for a hike up Stoney Batter.

Hook's Bay

Then into Half Moon Bay marina for 2 nights to meet up with friends who came bearing gifts: one couple a fabulous home-made curry; other friends next day with a feast of fish & chips!

Next day we headed over to Islington Bay for the night, then climbed Rangitoto in the morning before heading in to Westhaven marina to collect JC and Rhys for the return trip via Kawau (Schoolhouse Bay this time) to Marsden Cove. The catch on this passage was a Spotted Dogfish, but it looked so shark-like that we decided to release it before discovering that it apparently makes bloody good eating!

View from Rangitoto

Arriving Marsden just after low tide, we again found bottom, perhaps straying too far west of the outer approach to the dredged marina channel. Didn't take long to float off (again, you need to pick your tide to do this) and we were alongside by 1700 in time for bar opening, and to meet Rhys' family. Even Fay decided on an impromptu visit, although it took a little longer than planned, when she followed her satnav into Auckland CBD before turning north.

Shark!

John remained with us for a hungover trip up the river next day, where Fay waited to take him home. Peace at last (!) and a few days to tidy the boat, prep for another lay-up, and take care of some outstanding jobs.

Before departing, we moved to a cheaper pile mooring. Still in the more secure town basin, so we feel happy to leave her for a few weeks before our next visit...