Boys Trip #2

Caption competition...

The second lads' push comprised JC and elder son, Charlie, another John (very confusing, so we called him 'Bob'), Gareth and Rhys - back for more punishment, if only for 24 hrs.

With the advance party having taken care of provisioning earlier in the day (thanks, John), we were able to depart Whangarei within minutes of arrival on the very last of the tide - skimming the mud as we shot downstream a full 3 hrs after the high.

Touch and go, but it made for a record time to Marsden Cove marina, for a brief overnight (and a well-needed wash-down for Harlequin) before pressing on up the coast to Tutukaka the next day.

Lovely day for a swim

By mid-afternoon, we were alongside at the marina there, with Charlie & Gareth in the water (they volunteered, honest) giving the prop a good scrub. Needed it, too, although the rest of the anti-foul on the hull has been lasting amazingly well in the river at Whangarei.

Meanwhile the adults sat in the sun and chatted over cocktails. So it was only fair the boys be treated to a slap-up pizza dinner at the Marina Pizzaria - trez plez, sitting outdoors in the warm winter sun.

Charles

JC and John then had to depart, back at work on Monday morning, leaving the remaining team of Jim, Charlie & Gareth to sail & fish their way back down the coast in a stiff NW'ly to Bream Head. No fish landed, but they were met by a large school of dolphins for an hour of play, before heading straight up the river to Whangarei.

Where's Charlie gone?!

A couple of days of odd jobs rounded off this flying visit, leaving Harlequin refreshed and ready for the summer hols, starting next month. Can't wait...

Dolphin hunting

Here they come!

Line abreast

Boys Trip #1

Boys weekend

Work took its toll for the next couple of months, so it was July before Jim managed back for a boys' sail, planning to head up to explore Tutukaka.

Borrowing a car from a kind Kiwi CX mate for the drive up to Whangarei was a very pleasant bonus. JC, Chris & Rhys were there in advance. And impatient. Rather than wait an hour, having lost one of the boat keys, they broke in! Must have been thirsty.

At least they'd already done the shopping (and some), so by the time Jim arrived all he had to do was open the bar. And mend the lock. And buy a new padlock...

Gettin' fuzzy again...

Next day, Sunday, was a slow but early start, with the boys setting off down the river on the flood, hoping the weather would allow passage round Bream Head then up the coast to Tutukaka. It didn't.

Even motor sailing against the short seas inside Bream Head proved difficult, and didn't bode well for conditions outside. So discretion being the better part, and all that, the boys threw a quick 180 and headed back to Marsden Cove marina.

Securely berthed alongside an hour later, the heavens opened, followed by a full gale, nicely reinforcing the prudence of the earlier decision. Bar open!

Wrestling with the controls...

Now out of time to reach Tutukaka, Monday allowed time instead for a spot of driving practice around the marina, then a sail up the river. On the edge of a broach much of the time admittedly, 'Wrecking John' (his new moniker) and Rhys may well have been fighting with each other on the two wheels (the picture speaks volumes), when the steering chain snapped again. Just as well we had a spare from Norfolk Island.

10 mins later we were on our way again, and sailed all the way up to the new and very impressive, $28 million Hatea River lifting bridge. Except it wasn't. Lifting that is. Not for 2 hours, while some 'post-release servicing' was carried out. Apparently the bridge expands 20 mm more than predicted (at 26 deg C) and sticks!

Hatea River Bridge opening

So we waited patiently alongside the holding berth, stowed the sails, did some 'post-release servicing' ourselves on the steering, then... opened the bar again! This was a boys weekend, after all.

Things were getting tight on the falling tide by the time we were finally allowed through, with only a foot under the keel in places as we dashed the last mile up to our berth in the town basin. Drawing a couple of dirty looks, it has to be said, as we hammered past other moored boats at 5 kts, but we didn't fancy the alternative...

Tuesday, the lads very kindly helped out with a toe-rail (starboard aft) removal, as we'd discovered a leak into the starboard cabin. Many hands really do make light work, so the rail was off, the deck/hull joint sealed & tightened, and toe-rail back on again in no time at all. It helped that we were alongside to carry out the job too - less swimming involved.

The boys then departed for the drive to Auckland, leaving Jim with a month's worth of fresh rations to deal with. He immediately began with a juicy steak and a cheeky little Otago pinot noir...

Easter in the Hauraki Gulf

Whangarei marina

Easter saw Jim & Sue back aboard for a few weeks.

The plan was to cruise up to Marsden Cove & Whangarei Town Quay marinas to see which would be most suitable for long-term berthing over the winter.

Sailing adventure...

Fay Cooper and son William joined us for a sail to overnight at Kawau Island's Stockyard Bay. Then up to Marsden Cove (catching a couple of Kahawai along the way) to be met by John, just back from a trip to the US & UK. Baked fish for dinner!

Town Quay

Next day, Easter Sunday, we departed on the last of the flood for a trip up the river to Whangarei - very pretty, and tide not a concern for us (2.2 m draft in cruising trim) within 2 hrs of high tide. We were berthed on the town side, just a few hundred metres from Pak 'n Save and other stores, so very convenient. Picturesque too.

Dinner was taken ashore at a nearby Thai restaurant, where we were surprised to be told that alcoholic drinks were 'off', due to it being Easter Sunday. Apparently a law here?!

Whangarei falls

Beauty and the Beast

Monday we explored the Whangarei market, followed by the Hatea River walk via Kauri Park to the Whangarei Falls (3.5 hrs). It was hot, so this was followed by ice-creams on the quay and, as they were so good, a repeat!

Sadly, the Coopers then had to leave, to return to real life (and jobs), so we motored back down for another night at Marsden Cove, which proved as sterile and remote as ever. Decision made: we would be berthing at Whangarei for the coming months.

Suspension of services

First, though, a tour of the Hauraki Gulf. In part, a repeat of an earlier cruise we'd enjoyed when we chartered a Farr 40 after the Americas Cup in Auckland in 2003. In fact during the Americas Cup - due to the extensive weather delays, we were actually on the finish line aboard our charter yacht as Alingi took the cup.

This time we'd start with Great Barrier Island, including another climb up Mt Hobson and a couple of nights at Smokehouse Bay to shelter from a forecast 35 kt SW'ly -  where we bumped into another ex-HK boat: Touch of Class. Then to Tryphena for 2 nights, picking up a couple more Kahawai in the Man of War Passage.

Waiheke from Stony Batter

From there we'd intended to check out the Mercury Islands, but the unsettled weather changed that plan and we diverted to Hook's Bay on Waiheke instead, for a hike up Stoney Batter.

Hook's Bay

Then into Half Moon Bay marina for 2 nights to meet up with friends who came bearing gifts: one couple a fabulous home-made curry; other friends next day with a feast of fish & chips!

Next day we headed over to Islington Bay for the night, then climbed Rangitoto in the morning before heading in to Westhaven marina to collect JC and Rhys for the return trip via Kawau (Schoolhouse Bay this time) to Marsden Cove. The catch on this passage was a Spotted Dogfish, but it looked so shark-like that we decided to release it before discovering that it apparently makes bloody good eating!

View from Rangitoto

Arriving Marsden just after low tide, we again found bottom, perhaps straying too far west of the outer approach to the dredged marina channel. Didn't take long to float off (again, you need to pick your tide to do this) and we were alongside by 1700 in time for bar opening, and to meet Rhys' family. Even Fay decided on an impromptu visit, although it took a little longer than planned, when she followed her satnav into Auckland CBD before turning north.

Shark!

John remained with us for a hungover trip up the river next day, where Fay waited to take him home. Peace at last (!) and a few days to tidy the boat, prep for another lay-up, and take care of some outstanding jobs.

Before departing, we moved to a cheaper pile mooring. Still in the more secure town basin, so we feel happy to leave her for a few weeks before our next visit...

West Park - West Park

Jobs list

The NZ crew (that's Phil, Matt & Tiny) very kindly agreed to stay on for a couple of days of make & mend.

The list was quite extensive, and included a certain amount of stowage and laying-up, before leaving Harlequin  on her swing mooring for a few weeks. And after 18 days of hard sailing, she was ready for a good clean!

Plumber Matt

All of this done with a will and a smile, before everyone was invited over to the Coopers' country villa for a very relaxing Sunday afternoon BBQ. OK, we admit it -  it was rather pleasant to be ashore for a change!

Monday was for domestics (Matt bought an old banger), re-fuelling and a tourist run ashore into Auckland CBD.

And finally, Tuesday saw a frenzy of last-minute jobs before departing West Park Marina to head up-river to our swing mooring: Jim & Phil aboard, with Matt & Tiny to drive up then row out to meet us at the mooring.

Electrician Phil

Such was the plan, until Phil (at the helm, as we motored up the river) piped up with,

   "Jim, this bridge says 17 m - is that the height?"

   "... and is it enough?!"

Needless to say, Jim was on deck in a flash and, no, 17 m would not be enough. Harlequin has a 20 m air draft. Bugger.

Dinghy repairs

Greenhithe bridge is big; no-one had even considered that it would not also be tall. It wasn't. After a brief double-check to measure the mast alongside the bridge (the watching Police launch wasn't impressed) we turned around and headed back to the marina. Quickly - the tide was on the drop again, and we didn't want a repeat of our previous arrival.

Needless to say, this is where Harlequin will remain for the next few weeks, until an alternative can be found...

Great Barrier - Auckland

A welcome from Luna Rossa

Up at first light again (a habit easily acquired on a cruising yacht), we were off by 0700, motoring though the tight Man of War Passage.

Heading southwest for Auckland, the wind greeting us was - you guessed it - SW/15 kts, with a nice little SW'ly chop developing. Reefing 1 + 2, it was easiest to take a long tack past Little Barrier Island to Cape Rodney, where we eventually found more sheltered water. Tacking past Kawau Island, through a racing fleet heading north, the wind then backed to S'ly 10-15 - again in the face. Ain't it always the way!

Beating up the Harbour

So it was 1730 before we passed Rangitoto light, to be met by Luna Rossa's AC72 out training - quite a welcome as we entered Auckland Harbour. The photo above shows them apparently being towed by their high-powered safety boat. They weren't. They very swiftly roasted past it, and it was apparently impossible for them to keep up!

Having sailed/raced in Auckland Harbour many times before, it's really quite familiar. Perhaps that familiarity, coupled with the strangeness of being there aboard Harlequin, meant the sail up to and beneath the Harbour Bridge really brought it home. Yes, we'd really sailed here from Hong Kong. This was the moment it sunk in, and boy, did it feel grand. An epiphany, I suppose.

The Nippon clip-on

Pride always comes before a fall, though...

We were now late for dinner at Oh Calcutta in Parnell, where all the crew would be getting back together again to celebrate the end of the voyage. Hence chancing the approach to West Park marina (always a bit dodgy) only an hour after low tide. Taking great care with the channel marks, we reached within 300 m of the marina entrance and stuck. Firmly. All we could do was await the flood - obviously with a G&T in hand.

Sundowners on the foredeck

To assist in lifting us clear, and to get some distance between the Skipper and the wise-cracks, the crew were sent to the bow. But we weren't going anywhere - not for an hour anyway.

Not alone, though: a motor-cat joined us after a few minutes, and we left them there, still firmly aground, when we finally floated free and berthed at 2030.

A very quick Italian shower, and we were off to the pub to celebrate - kindly chauffeured by the Cooper fleet of limousines.

Almost exactly a year to the day (we left Hong Kong on 19 Feb 12) - the drinks (and dinner) are on Jim!

Just short of the marina

but not alone...

In the channel - honest!

Opua - Great Barrier Island

Tiny, Matt & Phil

The next few days saw the remaining team (Jim, Phil, Matt G & Tiny) kick back and enjoy a spot of cruising, as we delivered Harlequin down to Auckland where we'd arranged a swing mooring.

Departing Opua at 1000, we anchored for lunch at Urupuka Bay in the Bay of Islands. Just to get a tick in the box - we couldn't really see what all the fuss was about. It gave us the chance to put someone in the water though (Phil) to test the rudder mounts which had been making ominous noises. Confirmed slack, we tightened the top bolts, enjoyed a couple of beers in the sun and pressed on.

Wow - a hole in a rock!

Yes, 6 Weetbix!

Rounding Cape Brett and Piercy Island, with its famous 'hole in the rock', we were amazed by the number of tour craft bobbing about - some quite huge power-cats. We hope the tourists felt they'd had their money's worth, at $100 pp.

We then became a little busy as three Tuna quickly took our lures (the trusty pink squid), although one was lost off the back after 'spiking'. Tuna for dinner!

The first night was spent at Oakuru Bay in Whangaruru Harbour - a pleasant spot off a remote sandy beach. Then an early start for the 70 nm passage to Great  Barrier Island, known locally as simply "The Barrier".

Line snag

The early light airs gradually gave way to a building SW'ly, affording us a fresh reach under first reef (a bit of a tongue-twister) but also testing our rudder, with more signs of movement in the top mounting. We were glad to get into the shelter of Port Abercrombie where we dropped sail and motored into Kaiarara Bay (another tonque-twister) to anchor south side in 15 m.

F@*&ing thing!

Next morning we immediately set to fixing that top rudder mount. In removing the mounting bolts (SS tapped into alloy), two sheared - not a great start - so we decided to add three new, more substantial securing bolts, drilled and bolted through both top & bottom plates. Why this hadn't been done originally, God only knows...

On the scrounge...

The battery drill wasn't up to it, so Matt & Tiny were dispatched to beg a beefier ac-powered drill from a neighbouring boat. A few hours later: job done. Or so we hope.

Sheared bolts

Then the outboard started once and died. The plug was OK (new at Norfolk) so we emptied the fuel tank and sure enough: full of crap. Opened the carb': full of crap. Once cleaned up, we were finally 'go' for our run ashore.

With our small dinghy, and Tiny's massive bulk, we decided on two runs to shore. As Matt returned to collect the second team we heard 'holy shit' and looked up to see a massive shark leaping totally clear of the water three times in quick succession - straight at Matt! Never seen anything like it. We now call this area 'Shark Bay' and will think twice before any more swimming.

We set off at 1400 - finally - for our assault on Mount Hobson via the old Kauri Dam. After about 3,000 steps, built carefully up through the jungle by DOC, 1620 saw us at the top for amazing 360 degree views of the Hauraki Gulf and beyond - oh, and mobile comms. Bugger the stunning views, out came the phones!


By 1900 we were back at the beach. Delayed only slightly by Tiny's brief dip in the one of the streams - not a pretty sight.

View from Mt Hobson, looking West

A busy and eventful couple of days, but well worth it to visit The Barrier. A 'must-see' for anyone cruising the Gulf, I'd say...

Kauri Dam

Barrier steps

Kaiarara Bay

Censored...

Tiny at the top

Great Barrier Sunset

Arriving Opua

Ruffy-tuffy...

The last 24 hrs (motoring) went in a blur as we cleaned house, taking particular care to eat all the prohibited consumables (fish, fresh meats, vegetables, cheese, honey, etc, etc, etc) before arrival. Or consign them to the deep.

NZ is famous for their border checks for foodstuffs and 'biosecurity' so we didn't want any glitches. Or fines. All well covered in their downloadable Yacht Pack, so we thought we had it sorted.

Land ahoy!!!

A la Oz, we'd given plenty of notice to the Border Protection people but they seemed a lot less interested than their more paranoid cousins across the Tasman - barely responding to our notification, other than an auto-reply by email.

We were actually arriving on the exact date we'd given about 6 weeks earlier - go figure - and confirmed by our shore team the day before, but  we had to make a round of radio and telephone calls as we approached, to coordinate our arrival at the customs clearance berth of Opua Marina at 0900, start-work for the CIQ officers.

I see a long white cloud...

And they didn't have our completed (and very detailed) Advance Notice and Inward Report forms, so we had to fill them all out again from scratch. An hour-long process in itself. Mumble, grumble...

First to arrive was a very polite & efficient chap from MPI (formerly MAF) who checked on the recency of our anti-foul (3 weeks), the condition of our woodwork for possible pests, and of course foodstuffs and other stores. No problem - we had that sorted, or so we thought. Having received all assurances, he began his below-decks inspection at the 'beer-fridge' immediately at the foot of the companionway, and found - yep, a stack of vacuum-packed salami and sliced cheese! Who checked that fridge!!!?

Not to worry, it all went in his de-contam bag (he was all suited up in de-contam gear as well) and on he went with his search. I think he'd seen worse in his time...

Hoist the Q-pennant!

Then came two ladies from Customs, who explained the Temporary Import formalities for the yacht (up to 1 year), interrupted by the 2-man dog team, who had us all off the boat and formally lined up on the dock for 20 mins while 2 dogs (one each for drugs & explosives, apparently) went very convincingly over the boat from top to bottom. Even up on the boom for a good sniff!

And finally a chap from Immigration who completed the passport & visa process, revealing - yes, you've guessed it - irregularities with student work visa applications from a couple of our 'continental' crew.

Phil's speech

Finally, all sorted (probably 2 hrs the lot) we were declared fit & legal, and allowed to move to a regular berth. But not before the rum came out to celebrate! It's tradition!

Oh, and for Phil to mark the occasion with an arrival speech, a sort of prize-giving, where he gave us back all our own gear! For example: coffee vacu-mugs, now carefully inscribed with various witticisms from the crossing.

Farewell Matt!

Matt C was jumping ship immediately, off on a hitchhiking adventure; John & Yann were leaving later to drive south, but all agreed to get together for a celebratory curry in Auckland the following week to properly mark the end of the voyage.

That's both the 1 year / 10,000 nm (?) voyage from Hong Kong, and the 2 week / 1,500 nm Tassie crossing from Brisbane - now there's something worth celebrating!