Boracay-Cebu

Boracay Island

Steve, Pat & crew sailed Harlequin from PG-Maestre de Campo-Romblon-Tablas-Boracay (drinking the boat dry in the process) and handed over to Jim, Sue & team on 23 Mar, anchored off Boat Station 3 on White Beach, Boracay.

The pics tell it all – a beautiful, fun island, with sand & sea positively glowing in the tropical sunlight. A chance to wind down and chill out, enjoy the countless bars & restaurants, and shop for stores of fresh fruit & veg. And coke, which seems to be evaporating for some reason.

White Beach, Boracay

The outboard clutch is stuffed (a technical term) at present, having encountered a mooring line on a night run to the beach. Steve is going to try for spare parts back in HK. Instead, banca drivers have been taking turns attempting to ram Harlequin as they deliver us back from shopping trips or evening runs ashore.

After a few days settling in aboard, we departed mid-afternoon for an overnight sail to Gigantes Islands. Starting out in champagne conditions under crystal starlight, the first watch (Jim & Jon) handed over to Ross & Igo, who immediately darted into the wettest, coldest & darkest thunderstorm they could find. Replaced by 3rd watch, Jim & Sue for the third stretch to dawn, Jon then arose to remark on the wet decks, having slept through the lot!

Fixing the forehatch leak

Sadly, his next comment was “Look at that – a huge explosion!”. Sure enough, the local fishermen were in the process of destroying Cucaracha Shoal. About eight small fishing bancas descended quickly on the spoils.

Leaving Gigantes Islands at dawn

Anchoring in Gabi Bay, between N and S Gigantes, everyone then chilled, dried out & recovered for 24 hrs, watching the trail of banca traffic passing by. Oggling us, as we oggled them. Being a Sunday, they mostly seemed to be heading out for a day on the beach, visiting the local limestone cave and, later, enjoying a spot of karaoke. Huge smiles and waves all round – a very happy lot.

Jon catches dinner!

Dawn saw an early start for Malapascua in sunshine, flat seas and a perfect NE’ly. We were even blessed with a large Barracuda – dinner! The sun lasted all the way to our anchorage by the lighthouse but there the heavens opened, and never closed! Memories of Malapascua will be of cold rain & puddles, never a good look when mixed with the poverty of the local shacks. What might seem romantic in the sun, turns squalid after 24 hrs of rain. The one saving grace was an excellent dinner at Angelina’s Italian restaurant (the old La Dolce Vita?) with several bottles of Bordalino.

Ross & Igo departed here (obviously loving the rain) on the 27th, to be replaced by Colin & Glenda who had arrived earlier to stay at the Mangrove Oriental Resort. They were expertly delivered to Harlequin at (actually, well before) dawn on the 28th, with freshly cooked bacon & egg rolls! Welcome aboard!

Chartplotter track

The rain continued until Malapascua (obviously home of the Rain Gods) disappeared astern. The NE’ly 25-30 kts was gratefully received, though, as we sped South towards Cebu under full sail. The sun shined, the tide was with us and, as the wind dropped, we even popped the assy’ for an hour.

Zeke's in the S arm of Port Carmen

By the time we’d confirmed that the Cebu Yacht Club at Mactan was full, Port Carmen was conveniently abeam, and we nipped in to explore mooring possibilities. Lack of an outboard was acutely restricting anchoring options, so when we hailed a couple of yachts anchored in the N arm of the bay and were advised to “Try Zeke’s”, we were relieved to have found somewhere we could berth 'alongside’.

Zeke's 'Marina'

Actually moored bow-to with stern lines stretched out across the lagoon by the local boat-boys, Zeke’s basin was half full of cruising yachties, all helpful with advice on local provisioning options. Happy Hour at Zeke’s upstairs Stranded bar (a yacht club in everything but name) was a mine of information. Who needs the CYC!

Some light provisioning...

Danao (north of Cebu City) afforded the opportunity to stock up on provisions for Leg 3, with Sue & Glenda dragging Colin along as chief negotiator and Mr Fix-it, while Jim & Jon headed into Cebu to sort out CIQ out of the Philippines. Two brief nights, and all was sorted, ready to depart onwards for the Cuatro Islands...
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Leg 2B crew: Jim & Sue, Jon, Ross & Igo / Colin & Glenda

Leg 2A. Puerto Galera - Boracay

17th March 2012

Chantal, Anna and Pat arrive in Puerto Galera to be welcomed by Steve and Jo. The first of many San Miguel moments as we made our way on Harlequin to Boracay. She was in pristine shape but, one of Anna’s first jobs, was to be hoisted to the top of the mast in the Bosuns Chair to try and locate a missing screw - she is blonde but, none were found to be missing! Settled in and then dinner ashore at a Japanese restaurant and a few St Patrick’s day drinks in the Yacht Club then early to bed.


18th March. Puerto Galera - Boloc Bay

Early start but, maybe not early enough with 2 reefs. Clear skies, fresh north easterly and an ebb tide made for a tough beat down the Verde passage and into the Tablas passage. We saw Sabang for longer than we expected. We did however, catch our first fish off Silonay Island - a small Spanish Mackerel that Steve gutted and filleted. Consequently, we ended up mooring in Boloc Bay near Lucta point as our task of making Maestre de Campo was made more difficult by a veering wind. Sailing would not be sailing if everything went to plan!Unfortunately, during the evening the wind backed and set in as a NE.... a roly polly night at anchor with an anchor watch. We became very familiar with the anchor alarms!

19 March. Boloc Bay - Conception

Overcast skies with a fresh NE. A blessing in disguise as this reduced the risk of sunburn. Pretty straight forward reach down to Conception, Maestre de Campo. The odd shower and calm seas. Great bay for anchorage and for exploration. A row ashore (we could not get the outboard to start!) and a walk to the town was in order. Photo opportunities abounded as Anna’s and Chantal’s SLR’s sprung into action. It was a great community. An excellent meal on board with the bar open.

20 March. Conception - Romblon

Once again, overcast skies with a fresh NE. A local fisherman came alongside so we took the opportunity to replenish supplies. Steve asked, and was granted permission, to take the fisherman’s Banca for a spin - much to the consternation of the fisherman's young son! He reports that the Banca has good handling characteristics but probably will not be asking Jeremy Clarkson for his verdict.

We set off on a reach and we took the opportunity to gut and clean the fish. Chantal expertly wielding the fillet knife for the first time is now billed as supporting Bear Grylls’s next shoot. The ladies were assuming leading roles on board. Jo expertly helming with Anna and Chantal on the sheets. Which was fortunate as, after several hours, the skies darkened and we encountered a squall line. A reef was expertly put in and we weathered the storm in fine, if not, damp shape. Skies cleared and spirits lifted for the final run into Romblon. A good Anchorage allowed us all to disembark. Diesel, fruit, bread, beers and an internet cafe. Another great meal on board followed by some outboard engine maintenance. Abandoned due rain.

21 March. Rombolon - Guinawayan Pt.

Sunny intervals, Fresh NE, 2 - 3M swell. Prior to weighing anchor we had to end to end the main halyard as the outer braid at the jammer had worn through. Once completed, we set off with Jo once again at the helm. A good broad reach on course for north Tablas. Just rounding Tablas, Anna realised that we did not have a line out so proceeded to choose a lure and set the line. After a few minor adjustments, something took the lure, the reel screamed and everybody sprung into action. Sails de-powered, Steve on the rod, transom down and gaff at the ready we landed a large/heavy/enormous Barracuda which Steve, gutted, cleaned and filleted in a following rolling sea. Once we were on the west side of Tablas the sea state smoothed out and tanning positions were adopted.
A superb anchorage in a secluded bay with white beaches and clear water beckoned for the following morning.

22 March. Guinawayan Pt. - Boracay

Clear skies and once again a fresh NE. After some more maintenance on the outboard, we were able to get it started which allowed us to make it to shore. Subsistence living for the locals in an idyllic location... We gave away some provisions, including Steve’s mask and snorkel, that were most welcomed.
Champagne cruising conditions and a suitable wind allowed us to pop the asymmetric spinnaker. It was girl power... a well honed team. Jo helming, Chantal flying the spinnaker and Anna grinding. We forgot the champagne, so Steve and I had a San Miguel moment!
On, on to Boracay where we anchored at boat station 3 and handed over to Jim et al on the 23 March....

Leg 1 - Hong Kong to Puerto Galera

Harlequin departed Hong Kong on Sun, 19 Feb 12 - into the teeth of a gale.

Having delayed 24 hrs for the forecast of 35-40 kts (and the seas to go with it), the weather out at the rigs, 100 nm south of HK, was still 'lumpy' shall we say. This is when we found out that the VOR (Volvo Ocean Race) boats were on weather hold out of Hainan. Whimps.



A-watch

Needless to say, comfort & safety dictated that we remain on a beam reach (and  mostly beam-on to the 8m seas) for 24 hrs longer than planned - course 170 degs, under double-reefed main (50% on our new Lee  Sails cruising main) & triple-reefed Genoa. It was Monday night before conditions started to ease enough for us to come up a bit, and point for Puerto Galera. Amazingly, right on cue, according to the  Buoyweather forecast. But by then, the high-pressure hosing from breaking seas had exposed a number of leaks, and conditions below were becoming a bit damp.

 

Genoa fix

By dawn of Day 3 (Tue, 21st), we were comfortably back on course 125 degs, but motor-sailing! After 36 hrs of F7-8, F2 felt somewhat deflating, but gave us the opportunity to get dried out and feast on some proper nosh. A spot of sail repair too, as a couple of areas of the UV strip on the Genoa leach had started tearing away, during the height of the 'blow'. So up went the spare Genoa, while the Tape-drive was dried and patched. Now every inch of deck & rail was covered in gear, drying in the sun! 



OK- let's swap sails!

After 12 hrs of  mostly motor-sailing in winds from F1-3, thoughts turned to our ETA at Puerto Galera v's flight schedules for a couple of our crew, who were still hoping to fly out of Manila on Fri, 24th. A bit tight, given we couldn't enter PG in the dark (ie before Fri morning now) and a bit tight on fuel, too, if we had to motor all the way. So the decision was made to play it safe, and land first at Subic Bay for CIQ and re-fuel, drop Cameron & Alan off there, oh and shop for some Tanduay...



Philippines courtesy ensign



Entering Subic Bay at dawn on Thu, 23rd, we all enjoyed a brisk beat into the land breeze before re-starting the engine, readying the main for the drop, then... stand-by, the engine's died! Re-started, and died again. And again. Fuel filters? Chief Engineer Steve darted below, swearing under his breath, to find - yep, two very filthy filters, doubtless clogged by a year's accumulated fuel-tank silt (it's only been that long since we last cleaned the tank to dry) which had been stirred up during the first days of the crossing. Fresh filters, a few more choice phrases from Steve, and we were back in business.


Dawn in the Verde Is Passage


Entering SBYC was simple enough, once we managed VHF comms with the marina office. The staff were there to catch our lines as arranged, and we had arrived: 650 nm and 96 hrs from Hong Kong (a commendable average of 7 kts), including - amazingly, given the conditions of the first 2 days - 40 hrs of motoring!

Customs, Immigration & Health officials all duly arrived (with hands out for a US$50 sweetener each) and we were legal. C-watch smartened up and headed off to search for a hotel; the rest of us tidied up, shopped (for Tanduay & calamansi mostly) and re-fueled. Within 5 hrs we were ready to go. 


Arriving PG


The overnight to PG went swiftly. Dinner was washed down by a couple of tinkling T&C's as we raced south at 8 kts in a very pleasant offshore breeze, just having to reef down a bit as we passed Manila Bay. At dawn, we were beating into the Verde Island Passage (reef some more) and by 0900 we were moored in luminous sunshine at PGYC.

After a swim off the transom, and a celebratory breakfast beer, Dave decided he couldn't take the idylic conditions a moment longer and dashed off for the ferry to Batangas, hoping to switch for an earlier flight. Colin went with him to meet wife, Glenda, and the rest of us (only A-watch now) got on with the inevitable list of small jobs, in preparation for leaving Harlequin the next day. 

Still plenty of time in hand, though, to enjoy the PGYC Fri evening BBQ and let our hair down after the passage. Sat, 25th, saw us on banca, bus, taxi & Cathay Pacific - back to Hong Kong and reality. Only Colin & Glenda remained, to make the most of a week in paradise. More fool us!

Crew on Leg 1: Jim, Steve & Richard (A-watch), Colin & Dave M. (B-watch) and Cameron & Alan (C-watch).

For those of you with some bandwith, a spot of action video:

 

[Although it never really seems to do the conditions justice...]